"How do I order?"

There are four ways to order: online ordering, e-mail, fax or telephone. If ordering by e-mail or fax, just send a list of the items you are interested in along with your color preferances and shipping address. Shipping prices can be figured online by using our online shopping cart.

"How soon will my order ship?"

Typically our turnaround time for orders is 2-3 business days unless otherwise noted. Special colors such as white, silver, navy, Hugger orange, and yellow require an additional 7 days.

"Do you ship Internationally?"

Yes, via UPS only.

"Why don't you make a 3 point shocktower brace for the Fourth generation F-bodies?"

While it is proven that triangulation and multiple mounting points make for a stronger part however, in this case, we don't recommend it. The cowl area of the 4th generation F-body is extremely thin and protrudes over the engine bay virtually unsupported. Because of this area's weakness, there is nothing to gain by connecting into it and doing so could possibly crack the windshield through load transfer from the shocktowers.

"Which is better, tubular or boxed control arms?"

This has to be our most commonly asked question. We personally feel that either design is equally as strong for the load that the F-body chassis places on them. Because the F-body uses a control arm/torque-arm combination, very little lateral loading is placed on the control arms themselves. The torque-arm takes the lateral loading while the control arms are subjected mainly to a "compression" loading as the rear tries to push them forward into the chassis under acceleration. While an excessive lateral load would dictate the use of stronger(laterally) rectangular tubing, compression loading is much easier to handle and round tubing(of appropriate size)is more than sufficient. Bottom line: if you are an overkill nut and are willing to spend a little more then go with the boxed design, otherwise save a little money and get the tubular arms.

What bushings does BMR use and should I use polyurethane or the poly/rubber combination bushings in my control arms?

This really depends on your tolerance for road noise. GM designed the factory components with oversized, low durometer, rubber bushings. These are great for "cushioning" various noise caused by road irregularities, driveline vibrations, etc. however for maximum performance useage, a stiffer, low deflection bushing is preferred to control wheelhop and maximize traction. Both the polyurethane and the rubber bushings used by BMR are a smaller diameter than stock. This combined with the fact that they are made from a higher durometer rated material ensure minimal deflection regardless of which bushing choice is made. Our rubber bushings are actually made from Neoprene which has a much higher resistance to dry rot than standard rubber and much higher elasticity to retain it's shape longer. Our polyurethane bushings are specially made by Prothane and are fully grooved to allow lubrication throughout the bushing. Below are the pro's and con's of both bushings to help in choosing your configuration:

"What are the torque-specs for my BMR products?"

A-Body, G-Body, and F-Body control arm bolts/nuts should be torqued to 72 ft/lbs. B-Body control arms use a combination of bolt sizes on the upper control arms. The rear bolts should be torqued to 72 ft/lbs. while the front bolts should be torqued to 140 ft/lbs. B-Body lower control arm bolts should be torqued to 140 ft/lbs. F-Body panhard rod nuts should be torqued to 60 ft/lbs. Shocktower brace nuts should be torqued to 32 ft/lbs dry or 25 ft/lbs lubed.

"Is your battery relocation mount NHRA legal?"

According to the current rulebook, no. Wet cell batteries produce Hydrogen fumes while charging. This is why NHRA mandates a sealed battery box vented to the outside of the vehicle. Dry cell batteries are completely sealed and do not produce any fumes at all. Eventually dry cell batteries will become legal for use inside the vehicle but for now it is up to your local track official.

"I already have _ _ _ _ subframe connectors, can I still use your Torque arm?"

90% of the time, yes. The crossbrace used for the Trak Pak and Xtreme Duty style torque arms will not work on diamond style subframe connectors however all other models are compatible.

" My BMR Trak Pak is making noises, I realize that additional road noise is to be expected with such a rigid part replacement, but can I minimize it somehow?"

Yes, you can! General Motors' original design utilized a neutral pinion angle of 0 to +1 degree. Any alteration to this causes slight binding from other components that makes for a "creaking" and sometimes "clunking" suspension. While a negative pinion angle(pinion down) may be great for the drag strip, try to keep your settings as close to neutral as possible for daily driving. This will minimize noise as well as premature u-joint wear.

"What is chrome moly?"

A common misconception is that chrome moly is chrome plating. Despite the similar name, there is no connection. Chrome moly is a steel alloy that is an abbreviation for chromium molybenum. You can typically find it used in the aircraft and professional racing industry and it is noted for it's high torsional load handling capabilities. Due to it's higher strength, it is possible to use thinner gauge materials when building a product to yield lesser weight or a product that is the same weight but nearly twice as strong. In some instances, it is possible to build a product that is not only stronger than it's steel counterpart but lighter as well. In most of our products where chrome moly tubing is offered, it is for strength benefits in extreme duty applications.

"I purchased control arm relocation brackets but which hole do I use for my application?"

While each car varies based on many variables, there is a common rule of thumb that can be used for initial setup. Typically a car that is stock ride height or lowered less than 3/4" can use the middle mounting hole of our relocation brackets. Cars lowered 1" or more will benefit mostly from the lowest setting(bottom hole). The goal is to point the control arms in an upward angle rear to front. In other words, the front bushing of the control arm should be higher than the rear when looking from the side of the car. This provides an improved "instant center" by moving the imaginary intersect point of the control arms and torque arm rearward. Result - better weight transfer for improved traction.

Why is the correct pinion angle important?

U-joint angles should be as close to zero as possible for ideal u-joint life, minimum driveline resistance, and quieter driveline operation. When torque is applied to the rearend of most stock vehicles, the rearend attempts to counter-rotate, forcing the pinion upward and creating an exessive pinion angle. Any driveline angle other than zero creates resistance in driveline components which can make noise and accelerate wear. Stock suspensions have no way to adjust for this and the pinion angle will enter a positive angle (pinion pointing upward) when loaded. The easiest solution to this is to use aftermarket suspension components that allow for adjustment. Pre-adjusting the pinion angle down (negative) will a set amount will allow it to return to zero when torque is applied to the rearend.

For any additional questions, please e-mail or call 813-986-9302.